One of our Seeing is Believing tour participants, Stefan Hensel, has kindly taken the time to compile a few photo albums of some special moments captured during our trip.
"This photo essay will, hopefully, reflect the impressions gathered on this trip and the joy that it created for both the visitor and the visited. I hope it also reveals the sincerity of our discussions on how to promote literacy in a country so inaccessible and in need of so many other things as well. Despite having just visited the poorest country and the most polluted cities I have ever been in, I also return aware of having just been to the most beautiful country I have ever seen, greeted by the most hospitable people I have ever met. I brought more back from this trip then I was able to leave behind. With many thanks to all those people who made it happen."-Stefan Hensel
We will compile a number of these photos and create a gallery on the CODE site. In the meantime, Stefan's photo essay can be seen here.
All the best and thank you for all your comments, interest and continued support of CODE's efforts.
Ann
Friday, November 30, 2007
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Different Worlds
Well, the 2007 “Seeing is Believing” tour is officially over, and I think it’s been a great success. Part of the intent behind this trip and blog is to bring us all a little closer to issues that we sometimes feel too removed from to understand. Everyone’s world is a different size. This trip provides an opportunity for us at CODE to share a part of our world of international development and education with you all.
I’ve been with CODE for 3 years, and have traveled through much of Africa since my first stint working as a teacher in Nigeria in the 1980’s. As such, the scenes and issues we’ve come across here in Ethiopia are familiar to me and that familiarity has likely been reflected in my blog entries. I have invited all the trip participants to share their thoughts and feelings on the blog. Below are a couple excerpts from emails written during our trip. More coming soon once everyone has had some time to reflect.
Ann
“We had a sunset walk by Lake Tana where we had a long chat with a young man as we walked, about the schools and the shortage of books. My letter cannot give you the story, everywhere we see kids going to school and trying their English on us. Even out on the lake there were small boys paddling home (in biblical looking boats made from reeds) from school with their books in their little boats. But I fear they may get some schooling and then still not have an opportunity in life. We had a meeting with the Minister of Education and some writers to discuss the publishing and distributing of books in the languages of the people. It was a very interesting meeting as they have been opening schools, universities and technical colleges at a rapid rate.” – Judy Thomas
“Ethiopia is actually doing pretty well, considering where it started from. The kids really do want to be educated. They go to incredible sacrifices to attend school. Things will get better. I've seen a hostel where teenaged girls sleep 4 to a room in a building with mud walls, thatched roof and straw on the floor, cooking their own meals. (The building is surrounded by barbed wire to keep the boys out.) Kids routinely walk 4 km each way for school. Class size is about 80. Textbooks have to be shared by 5 kids, if there are any at all. High school is taught in English, and a strong and nearly incomprehensible dialect is developing. Books become book-es, for example. Literacy is certainly a much better investment of my charitable instincts [than hand-outs to individuals].” – Bill Burt
I’ve been with CODE for 3 years, and have traveled through much of Africa since my first stint working as a teacher in Nigeria in the 1980’s. As such, the scenes and issues we’ve come across here in Ethiopia are familiar to me and that familiarity has likely been reflected in my blog entries. I have invited all the trip participants to share their thoughts and feelings on the blog. Below are a couple excerpts from emails written during our trip. More coming soon once everyone has had some time to reflect.
Ann
“We had a sunset walk by Lake Tana where we had a long chat with a young man as we walked, about the schools and the shortage of books. My letter cannot give you the story, everywhere we see kids going to school and trying their English on us. Even out on the lake there were small boys paddling home (in biblical looking boats made from reeds) from school with their books in their little boats. But I fear they may get some schooling and then still not have an opportunity in life. We had a meeting with the Minister of Education and some writers to discuss the publishing and distributing of books in the languages of the people. It was a very interesting meeting as they have been opening schools, universities and technical colleges at a rapid rate.” – Judy Thomas
“Ethiopia is actually doing pretty well, considering where it started from. The kids really do want to be educated. They go to incredible sacrifices to attend school. Things will get better. I've seen a hostel where teenaged girls sleep 4 to a room in a building with mud walls, thatched roof and straw on the floor, cooking their own meals. (The building is surrounded by barbed wire to keep the boys out.) Kids routinely walk 4 km each way for school. Class size is about 80. Textbooks have to be shared by 5 kids, if there are any at all. High school is taught in English, and a strong and nearly incomprehensible dialect is developing. Books become book-es, for example. Literacy is certainly a much better investment of my charitable instincts [than hand-outs to individuals].” – Bill Burt
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Rooms full of children
Yesterday was a travel day with an early morning visit to the local Lalibela primary school. At the school we distributed two big boxes of pencils. The visit was moving as the children performed a song a dance. We’ve seen a lot of school children during these past 10 days. The joy we’ve encountered in every room full of children, who have so little to enhance their learning experience, seems to leave us all a little emotionally drained as we revisit over and over again how much we take for granted. This vignette is sometimes overwhelming but is also the driving force behind our certainty that there are wonderful things ahead for this nation of hard-working, sincere and concerned people.
We leave Lalibela wanting more and feast on the scene below the aircraft – mountains, farms and beautiful Lake Tana.
Back in Addis Ababa and our trip is winding down. It’s hard to believe how quickly these days have passed. This morning we spent some time talking to the Executive Director of CODE Ethiopia, Tesfaye Dubale. We shared a lot of observations, reliving moments and reflections we’ve had during the past 10 days.
This afternoon we’ll spend some time shopping and soaking in a little more of this busy city before sharing our last meal together tonight. Over the course of the week we've come to know each other and really appreciate each others’ thoughtful observations and different perspectives. We've agree to share our photos and meet again soon for a meal back home.
Ann
We leave Lalibela wanting more and feast on the scene below the aircraft – mountains, farms and beautiful Lake Tana.
Back in Addis Ababa and our trip is winding down. It’s hard to believe how quickly these days have passed. This morning we spent some time talking to the Executive Director of CODE Ethiopia, Tesfaye Dubale. We shared a lot of observations, reliving moments and reflections we’ve had during the past 10 days.
This afternoon we’ll spend some time shopping and soaking in a little more of this busy city before sharing our last meal together tonight. Over the course of the week we've come to know each other and really appreciate each others’ thoughtful observations and different perspectives. We've agree to share our photos and meet again soon for a meal back home.
Ann
Monday, November 19, 2007
7 Canadians, 11 Churches and 1000 Priests
We hit the 11 famous rock hewn churches of Lalibela at mid-morning, eager to see the miracle of construction. These towering edifices were hewn out of the solid, red volcanic stone on which they stand. They appear like a superhuman creation - in size and in concept. 
Some lie almost completely hidden in deep trenches, while others stand in open quarried caves. A complex labyrinth of tunnels and narrow passageways connect them all. This shaded and damp subterranean world is lined with secret crypts and caverns still used by the more than 1,000 local priests and deacons everyday. 
As legend goes, King Lalibela once visited Jerusalem, where God appeared before him and ordered the construction of churches carved from stone. It is said that the churches were built with amazing speed, and still to this day it’s commonly believed that angels came at night and helped complete them. These churches have been called the eight wonder of the world and were recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1978. It’s hard to escape the awe they evoke. We’re mesmerized. After the churches we visited the colourful and crowded market. It is often intimidating to be a tourist in a market, and we were very aware of our role as non-contributors who were present just to watch the locals as if they were tourist attractions themselves.
Our senses and our minds overwhelmed us and we left the local residents to their business of shopping and socializing with friends. In the evening we joined another group of tourists from Poland for a barbeque. Energetic musicians and dancers entertained and eventually engaged us all in an invigorating shoulder dance. It's still tough to compete with the agility of the Ethiopians but we did our best and were encouraged by everyone around us. Yesterday we woke up early again, determined to reach the top of a nearby cliff where views of the mountains and another rock hewn church awaited. Some of us hired mules, guided by their handlers who doubled as helpers when we were forced to dismount and climb some very steep paths with loose gravel. The view at the summit was incredible, 360 degrees of stunning peeks and another beautiful church.
Covered in dust but pleased with our achievement, we made it back to the hotel. In the afternoon a local guide, Kaza, invited us to his home for a beautiful coffee ceremony. We met his extremely well-mannered children and ate some of the best enjira and sauce we’ve had in a week. Being invited into someone’s home is a surprise opportunity that always seems to arise when we’re least expecting it. So far the Ethiopian hospitality we continuously encounter has been a huge factor in making this trip so memorable. Kaza is a generous person who talked about his life in Lalibela and spoke about pride for his country.
Windy roads and jagged mountains
Here's to the long road again as we set off for an 11 hour journey to Lalibela on highways that hug the road and give us all breathtaking views of canyons, mountains, quilts of terraced farmland and the never ending stream of walkers on the side of the road carrying bundles. Out Timeless Tour guide knows exactly when to pull over for the best shots and always has an answer to our endless curiosity about his incredible country. It takes seconds for kids to come running through the fields to greet us with huge smiles, waves and giggles. They enchant us. As the road passes through miles of road construction we jump to close the windows in a vain attempt to reduce the dust- which by mid day coats our clothes, hair and mouth.
Knowing that we will be rewarded with a hot shower and fluffy white towels at Tukul Village Hotel keeps the group - now known as the Canadian Group of seven - in good spirits.
We arrive and Lalibela is as magical as I remember it. Built on a natural 2,600-metre rock terrace and surrounded on all sides by rugged mountains, Lalibela was once the thriving and populous capital city of a medieval dynasty. The passing centuries have reduced it to a small village- a quite refuge for the 11 ancient churches we’ll see tomorrow. We close another incredible day with a fine meal, a cool beer and wonderful company.
Knowing that we will be rewarded with a hot shower and fluffy white towels at Tukul Village Hotel keeps the group - now known as the Canadian Group of seven - in good spirits.
We arrive and Lalibela is as magical as I remember it. Built on a natural 2,600-metre rock terrace and surrounded on all sides by rugged mountains, Lalibela was once the thriving and populous capital city of a medieval dynasty. The passing centuries have reduced it to a small village- a quite refuge for the 11 ancient churches we’ll see tomorrow. We close another incredible day with a fine meal, a cool beer and wonderful company.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Nothing short of incredible
This morning we loaded our suitcases onto the bus while it was still dark- we headed out of town a bit behind schedule but still beat the rush hour traffic. Before we knew it our bus was taking us through an incredibly scenic drive in the Blue Nile Gorge. For more than a million years the Blue Nile has been carving a huge gash through the Ethiopian Highlands.
At more than 1,000m deep, about 20km wide and over 600km long, this is Africa’s Grand Canyon. From all over the highlands, huge rivers pour into the Blue Nile Gorge. By the time it leaves Ethiopia, it will be 50 times the size it was in the dry season. The fields around us are the proverbial green patchwork of Ethiopia’s popular cereal crop tef, yellow ground nut flowers and ploughed fields. In spite of the long drive we are captivated by the scenes outside our windows and the never-ending line of people walking to schools, markets or the fields.
It’s becoming a bit cliché for us, but it seems like every day here is uniquely incredible. We use the word often. This particular incredible day began with a visit to a nearby reading room. As is becoming the norm we were greeted by a group of enthusiastic children wearing mismatched clothes and the biggest grins you’ve ever seen. On our way back to town we were invited to join in on a women's millennium celebration. Several hundred women were in attendance - most draped in white cotton dresses and shawls.
We arrived in time for the coffee ceremony (our third one!) and enjoyed rich dark coffee heavily laced with cinnamon and accompanied by fresh bread and popcorn. We were entertained by beautiful dances. The women in our group jumped on stage and together we took a shot at gyrating our shoulders.
Ethiopian dance is hard to explain in words, it involves rotating and bouncing various shoulder and neck muscles in a rhythmic way we couldn’t possibly mimic correctly. This type of dancing has been around for centuries and is as prominent in popular urban clubs as it is in cultural dance shows. I don’t think we looked quite as elegant as our Ethiopian counterparts, but the audience cheered us on with great whoops and applause.
The energy and drive of these women conjured that old adage “educate a woman, educate a nation.” I was inspired to share this thought and gave a small speech as a thank you. The response goes down as another incredible moment in an incredible day. After the celebration we shared a delicious meal of tebs and njera (traditional pancake and meat stew) and met with local children’s authors. We finished it all off with a relaxing cruise on Lake Tana’s calm blue water.
Tomorrow we pile back into our bus for a full-day drive to Lalibella. Pictures coming soon.
Ann
At more than 1,000m deep, about 20km wide and over 600km long, this is Africa’s Grand Canyon. From all over the highlands, huge rivers pour into the Blue Nile Gorge. By the time it leaves Ethiopia, it will be 50 times the size it was in the dry season. The fields around us are the proverbial green patchwork of Ethiopia’s popular cereal crop tef, yellow ground nut flowers and ploughed fields. In spite of the long drive we are captivated by the scenes outside our windows and the never-ending line of people walking to schools, markets or the fields.
It’s becoming a bit cliché for us, but it seems like every day here is uniquely incredible. We use the word often. This particular incredible day began with a visit to a nearby reading room. As is becoming the norm we were greeted by a group of enthusiastic children wearing mismatched clothes and the biggest grins you’ve ever seen. On our way back to town we were invited to join in on a women's millennium celebration. Several hundred women were in attendance - most draped in white cotton dresses and shawls.
We arrived in time for the coffee ceremony (our third one!) and enjoyed rich dark coffee heavily laced with cinnamon and accompanied by fresh bread and popcorn. We were entertained by beautiful dances. The women in our group jumped on stage and together we took a shot at gyrating our shoulders.
Ethiopian dance is hard to explain in words, it involves rotating and bouncing various shoulder and neck muscles in a rhythmic way we couldn’t possibly mimic correctly. This type of dancing has been around for centuries and is as prominent in popular urban clubs as it is in cultural dance shows. I don’t think we looked quite as elegant as our Ethiopian counterparts, but the audience cheered us on with great whoops and applause.
The energy and drive of these women conjured that old adage “educate a woman, educate a nation.” I was inspired to share this thought and gave a small speech as a thank you. The response goes down as another incredible moment in an incredible day. After the celebration we shared a delicious meal of tebs and njera (traditional pancake and meat stew) and met with local children’s authors. We finished it all off with a relaxing cruise on Lake Tana’s calm blue water.
Tomorrow we pile back into our bus for a full-day drive to Lalibella. Pictures coming soon.
Ann
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
A book, a smile and a fresh coat of paint
Addis Ababa has an energy that’s hard to capture with words. The city is vibrant. Its inhabitants are of more than 80 nationalities speaking more than 80 languages. Addis Ababa is sharply divided by class and ethnicity. You can stay in a five-star hotel with heated pools and a full spa -- five blocks from a city slum without electricity or even simple sanitation infrastructure. It is an intriguingly indigenous African city. Unlike many other African capitals, it’s founding, growth and development, are not rooted in colonization. The city often smells like the Eucalyptus trees that surround it.
Yesterday afternoon we turned off a busy Addis Ababa road into a densely populated low income area of about 35,000 people. The streets became very narrow and full of life as children darted here and there to watch the wide bus proceed carefully down the hill.
We were there to see the Lidetta Reading Room. The reading room is a small library that was recently completed with support from CODE. It was sporting a new coat of paint both inside and out and was full of tables and chairs - ready for the first shipment of books to arrive this week. The committee was all smiles as they greeted us and showed off the work of the community. They say they think the small library will make a difference to as many as 10,000 children who attend nearby schools.
The paint was still drying in this reading room, soon to be opened in the poorest neighbourhood I have ever been in. Still in Addis Ababa, the literacy rate here is at 30%, 12% under the national average. – Stefan Hensel
Today we woke up early and set out for the Holletta and Addis Alem reading rooms. With yesterday’s image of a brand new library fresh in our minds, it was great to see what could happen with long term support. These two libraries have been working with CODE for a while. They were brimming with great books and enthusiastic teachers who have taken courses in teaching reading.
The children were anxious to show off their reading skills and completely charmed us with songs and gifts. The small bouquets of roses and traditional blankets we received from them were a testament to Ethiopian hospitality and kindness, and we were extremely touched by their generosity.
In Holletta we also had a chance to visit the beginnings of a hostel for girls. We were all inspired to learn that the girls had contributed 1 Birr each towards building the hostel. One Birr is only about ten cents Canadian, but it is a fortune for an Ethiopian child. The girls’ excitement and willingness to contribute showed us that they knew the value of education and we were all touched by their efforts.
This will be a dormitory for young girls who study at the local high school but live in villages too far to return to every night. The hostel will be home to 4 girls in each room. They need some help. – Stefan Hensel
CODE supports another hostel in Southern Ethiopia that provides a safe place for 120 girls to study. The hostel and the reading room attached to it prevent girls from having to travel long distances to and from school in sometimes unsafe conditions. The female students hoping to stay at the Holletta Hostel face similar challenges and currently attend classes at a local high school where most classrooms contain more than 80 students.
Once again we’re humbled by the realization of what we take for granted in Canada.
The trip to and from the reading rooms was slow but we were kept busy taking in the many sights outside our bus windows. I think all of our eyes were darting from one side of the road to the other, noticing the development of a new flower export industry and the signs of growth that are accompanying it.
We’re looking forward to more window-watching tomorrow, as we begin our travels north into the mountains.
Ann
Yesterday afternoon we turned off a busy Addis Ababa road into a densely populated low income area of about 35,000 people. The streets became very narrow and full of life as children darted here and there to watch the wide bus proceed carefully down the hill.
We were there to see the Lidetta Reading Room. The reading room is a small library that was recently completed with support from CODE. It was sporting a new coat of paint both inside and out and was full of tables and chairs - ready for the first shipment of books to arrive this week. The committee was all smiles as they greeted us and showed off the work of the community. They say they think the small library will make a difference to as many as 10,000 children who attend nearby schools.
The paint was still drying in this reading room, soon to be opened in the poorest neighbourhood I have ever been in. Still in Addis Ababa, the literacy rate here is at 30%, 12% under the national average. – Stefan Hensel
Today we woke up early and set out for the Holletta and Addis Alem reading rooms. With yesterday’s image of a brand new library fresh in our minds, it was great to see what could happen with long term support. These two libraries have been working with CODE for a while. They were brimming with great books and enthusiastic teachers who have taken courses in teaching reading.
The children were anxious to show off their reading skills and completely charmed us with songs and gifts. The small bouquets of roses and traditional blankets we received from them were a testament to Ethiopian hospitality and kindness, and we were extremely touched by their generosity.
In Holletta we also had a chance to visit the beginnings of a hostel for girls. We were all inspired to learn that the girls had contributed 1 Birr each towards building the hostel. One Birr is only about ten cents Canadian, but it is a fortune for an Ethiopian child. The girls’ excitement and willingness to contribute showed us that they knew the value of education and we were all touched by their efforts.
This will be a dormitory for young girls who study at the local high school but live in villages too far to return to every night. The hostel will be home to 4 girls in each room. They need some help. – Stefan Hensel
CODE supports another hostel in Southern Ethiopia that provides a safe place for 120 girls to study. The hostel and the reading room attached to it prevent girls from having to travel long distances to and from school in sometimes unsafe conditions. The female students hoping to stay at the Holletta Hostel face similar challenges and currently attend classes at a local high school where most classrooms contain more than 80 students.
Once again we’re humbled by the realization of what we take for granted in Canada.
The trip to and from the reading rooms was slow but we were kept busy taking in the many sights outside our bus windows. I think all of our eyes were darting from one side of the road to the other, noticing the development of a new flower export industry and the signs of growth that are accompanying it.
We’re looking forward to more window-watching tomorrow, as we begin our travels north into the mountains.
Ann
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